How to install slate tile on a fireplace

Simply reapply the finish about once a year to maintain the new, shiny appearance. Although this high-quality natural stone can be expensive, slate is less costly than marble or granite.

The fine texture of slate is actually rather smooth to the touch with no coarse crystals or sand grains. The natural surface of a riven tile has the rugged topography of broken stone and provides slip resistance. On the other hand, some slate tiles come smoothly pre-cut featuring a flat, uniform surface — but may be slippery, especially in high-moisture areas.

Slate can also be sanded or honed. Slate tiles are available in several thicknesses. Slate tiles are also available in a wide range of shapes. Select from rectangular, square, octagonal or randomly cut. Size varies as well, from large flagstones to small inset tiles. Use neatly cut square tiles for an almost groutless uniform appearance with a contemporary feel, or set variously sized tiles in wider grout lines for an old-fashioned, country appearance.

Large slabs of slate are available for stair treads or fireplace surrounds. And some DIY packages sold at home stores consist of about six differently sized pieces that interlock into a random pattern. Planning the Floor.

Before beginning installation, remove any existing floor coverings and baseboard trim. Make any necessary repairs, such as renailing any loose boards that might squeak. Slate tile can be installed over a cement or wood floor that is structurally sound and dry.

For concrete floors, use a leveling compound to ensure the subfloor is all in the same plane. Fasten the reinforcing sheets to the subfloor, spacing screws every 8 inches on center. For plywood subfloors, apply a thin coat of water-based polyurethane to prevent the water from soaking into the wood and causing it to swell beneath the slate.

Sketch a floorplan to calculate how many tiles you require, including any special border features or decorative patterns. Keep in mind that thick grout lines between joints will impact how many tiles will fit on the floor. Slate is a natural stone which many homeowners are fond of. It has a different appearance from granite or marble, since, unlike these fairly pure products, it is composed of many layers of shale, quartz, mudstone and sometimes even semiprecious gemstones like hematite and pyrite.

The compression of these materials over time means that slate has a unique banded composition, displaying striations of color that lend it a more dynamic appearance than many other stones. Remove any trim around the fireplace surround and the mantel, if there is one. Apply a skim coat of thinset evenly over the brick using a straight finishing trowel and let it dry 24 hours.

Measure the length and width of each side of the fireplace surround. Make a template from cardboard that matches the dimensions of the surround.

Lay out the slate tiles on the template, working from the center of each section toward the edges. You should walk as little as possible on the finished floor until it dries, so try to establish a plan that places you in a position to escape to the next quadrant, and eventually from the entire room when done. Once a piece is in place, put tile spacers around all four corners. This will create consistent gaps between the tiles, which will later turn into straight and even grout lines.

Spread more mortar, trailing down the line of chalk, and place a second tile next to the first. Surround the open edges of this piece with more tile spacers. This process continues in a straight row until you reach the far wall. Once you have three or more tiles placed, you can even them dimensionally by laying a piece of 2 x 4 wood, covered in a carpet remnant, across their surface.

Tap this lightly with a rubber mallet to ensure that no piece is any higher than another. If you are using a particularly dimensional slate with lots of peaks and gaps, you may want to avoid this step.

The irregularities in the material may lead to inconsistencies in height. In that case, do your best to eyeball the relative depth of each piece.

Once the first row of slate tiles reaches the wall, you will often end up with a gap. Measure the distance from the tile spacer on the last piece to the end of the room. Then employ a wet saw to cut a tile down to the dimensions necessary to fill that area in.

Place the specially sized piece into the space to complete your first line. This entire process can be repeated, starting at the first tile placed, with a second being installed into mortar right next to it. Continue using tile spacers to ensure even grout lines, and work your way down with the first row acting as a guide. Be very careful when using a wet saw. Always wear eye protection and consider wearing earplugs to protect yourself from the loud sounds that these machines can make. If any adhesive seeped up into the spaces between individual pieces, employ a shop knife to remove it.

Move on to the next quadrant, laying your first tile in the center space bordered by two lines of the chalk cross that you created. Continue to place spacers between individual pieces, and work in rows following the already installed slate as a guide to ensure that everything comes out straight, even, and consistent. Don't forget to level the pieces with every third tile. Once your tiles are set, give the mortar adhesive at least 40 hours to dry.

Keeping the space well ventilated with fans and open windows can help to speed up this process. Always follow their instructions, and do not allow anyone to step on the floor until it has hardened into a solid installation. Slate is a naturally porous material that requires a good sealant. Once the mortar has dried, wipe away any excess that may have gotten on the surface.

Then seal the entire installation to clog the pores and create an invisible protective barrier. First apply a below-surface sealing agent, which will go down into the tiny holes in the stone and clog them. This can be poured into an old coffee can and spread across the tiles with a small foam brush, using very thin, even strokes. Do not allow it to bubble up or accumulate into puddles. If this occurs, then use a dry foam brush to smooth the puddles out.

Get Cost Estimates. Tile Fireplace Prices If you already have a fireplace installed, you don't need to be sold on its virtues as a heat source, focal point for gatherings, and the perfect place to curl up and relax. Types of Tiled Fireplaces Many homeowners opt to tile over their existing masonry fireplace, but you may be interested in building a tile fireplace from scratch. In either case, you'll need to first choose a fireplace tile variety, the most common of which include: Natural Stone: A marble tile fireplace, slate tile fireplace, or granite tile fireplace is considered a relatively high-end product provided you go with the real thing and not faux stone , but the beauty, strength, and durability of natural stone makes it an appealing option.

Ceramic: A ceramic tile fireplace won't be as tough as one made from natural stone. Still, ceramic is durable, easy to maintain, and available in a huge variety of colors, textures, and patterns.